What protects in a sunscreen are different types of filters that are usually divided into organic (chemical) and mineral (physical) filters. Many people use organic filters because they provide a more comfortable and better product to apply, as they do not give the white slightly sticky skin on the skin that products with high levels of mineral filters can give.
From a skin perspective, the mineral filters titanium dioxide and zinc oxide may be preferable because they do not penetrate (pass through) the skin. Therefore, the body is less likely to react to mineral filters. It is partly because of the low risk of allergies that mineral filters are often used for children and people with sensitive skin. However, the cosmetic effect can be of concern as mineral filters can leave a white film on the skin.
However, the new and most modern organic filters consist of larger molecules that also have a very low tendency to penetrate the skin. For these substances, the advantages of the organic and mineral filters have been combined, i.e. they provide a nice product to apply while being large enough to stay on the outside of our skin. Our view is therefore that the best sunscreen product, which provides the best protection and the best product to apply, is one that contains a combination of modern organic filters and the mineral filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
Among the organic filters, we believe that the older generation from substances should be avoided, as they have a smaller molecular size and can penetrate the skin. The older generation of filters are more likely to cause allergies and skin problems, and in some cases their levels have been measured in urine, indicating absorption and endocrine disrupting effects. They have also been shown in many cases to have a negative impact on the environment.
To find out what is what, look for the following in the INCI list of the product:
Examples of new modern organic UV filters (INCI) that we recommend are: Bis-Ethylhexyoxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Tris Biphenyl Triazine, Ethylene-bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate.
Names of the older generation organic UV filters (INCI) that should be avoided: Benzophenone-3, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA
Mineral filters in sunscreens we recommend (INCI): Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide.
Our advice is also to choose sunscreen products from from European companies developed for the European market, as they tend to use newer versions of UV filters that are better from from a skin and health perspective. The FDA, which regulates the use of UV filters in the US, has not yet approved many of the European variants, so US companies tend to still use the older filters. If you are interested in the environmental impact of different UV filters, you can read more here.
