What is in my skin care product? - Emollient
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Skin cream contains emollients to preserve skin moisture and prevent it from becoming dry and flaky. There are both synthetic emollients, such as squalene and mineral oils, and natural emollients such as lanolin and cocoa butter.
The loss of water through the skin is an ongoing process that never stops, it is known as transepidermal water loss or TEWL. Emollients have an occlusive effect, which means they cover the top layer of the skin and prevent water evaporation. Because of their moisture-boosting properties, they are used in skincare to increase hydration - especially in products for drier skin types.
Normal skin retains moisture and remains soft thanks to the hydrolipidic film, a unique oily layer that covers the outermost layer, the epidermis. The hydrolipidic film maintains the skin's barrier function and the emollient component of the skin cream consists of natural oils or mineral oils such as paraffin oil, waxes and butters. Its purpose is to mimic the hydrolipidic film as closely as possible, thereby contributing to a more effective barrier function in dry skin.
First and foremost look for emollients that the skin itself produces examples include ceramides, squalene, omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids and cholesterol. You can find these emollients in the hydrolipidic film. Several studies have shown that creams containing ceramides reduce skin inflammation, while enhancing barrier function. Natural ceramide levels in the skin change with the seasons. They are lowest in winter, which may be one reason why many people experience drier skin during cold weather.
The same goes for omega 3 fatty acids and other lipids, which can reach low levels during winter if you live in a cold country. Creams containing ceramides and omega 6 have been shown to help people suffering from psoriasis. Ceramide creams have also been shown to be beneficial for children with eczema, improving the hydration levels of the skin. As for omega 6, people who are prone to developing spots have been found to have lower levels of this oil in their skin.
Squalene, which occurs naturally in the skin (or a variant, squalane, which has longer sustainability), is an oil widely used in the skin care industry. It used to be extracted from shark livers, but fortunately a way has now been found to get it from olives. Squalene is good for the skin and has very effective emollient properties.
INCI: Ceramide, Squalene, Squalane, Cholesterol, Linoleic Acid (Omega 6), Linolenic Acid (Omega 3)
